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Off-Grid Solar + Battery Size Estimator (kWh → Panels)

Estimate a conceptual off-grid solar array and battery bank size based on daily energy use, peak sun hours, system losses, and storage autonomy days. Educational only, not a substitute for professional electrical design.

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How many solar panels and batteries do I need off-grid?

Work back from your daily kilowatt-hours. For the panels, array kW equals daily kWh divided by your worst-month peak sun hours times a system efficiency around 0.75. An 8 kWh per day cabin at 3.5 winter sun hours needs about 3 kW, which is eight 400-watt panels. For the battery, nameplate kWh equals daily kWh times your autonomy days divided by the usable depth of discharge, so 8 kWh a day, 3 days of autonomy, and LiFePO4 at 80 percent works out to 30 kWh on the sticker for 24 usable.

Size the panels to the worst month, not the summer average, or the bank drains flat in January. Lead-acid caps near 50 percent depth of discharge, so it needs close to double the nameplate of lithium for the same usable energy. Verify your peak sun hours against NREL PVWatts for your address before you commit to a panel count.

Somebody posts a cabin build on a forum: four 400 W panels, one 5 kWh battery, works great. What they skip: the cabin sits in Arizona at 6.2 peak sun hours and the only real load is a mini fridge. Copy that setup to Vermont at 3.4 winter PSH with a well pump and you are dead by mid-January. Every off-grid solar sizing problem boils down to three mismatches — energy versus power, nameplate versus usable capacity, and summer averages versus winter minimums.

This estimator takes your daily kilowatt-hour load, local peak sun hours, desired autonomy days, and battery chemistry to produce a panel array size and battery bank capacity. Treat the numbers as a feasibility checkpoint: enough to price equipment and compare chemistries before paying an electrician for a stamped load calculation.

Daily kWh Load Audit: What Actually Runs

Grab a clipboard. Walk through the cabin and write down every device, its nameplate wattage, and the hours it runs per day. A 60 W porch light on a timer for 6 hours is 0.36 kWh. A pressure pump that cycles 40 minutes total at 750 W is 0.5 kWh. People consistently underestimate refrigeration — a chest freezer rated at 100 W can pull 250 W on compressor start and cycle eight or nine hours a day, racking up 1.5–2 kWh that never shows up in a casual guess.

Once you total the column, add 20%. Not 5, not 10 — twenty. Guests leave lights on, you add an electric kettle next winter, and the router you forgot about draws 12 W around the clock (that alone is 0.29 kWh/day). A 7 kWh audit becomes an 8.4 kWh design load, and that margin is the difference between coasting through a cloudy stretch and draining the bank to cutoff.

Peak Sun Hours and Panel Array Sizing

Peak sun hours (PSH) compresses a full day of variable irradiance into an equivalent number of hours at 1,000 W/m². Phoenix in December: about 5.2 PSH. Upstate New York in December: around 2.5. The gap is enormous, and it determines whether your cabin needs six panels or fourteen.

Always size to worst-month PSH unless a backup generator covers the deficit. The panel formula: Array kW = daily kWh ÷ (PSH × combined efficiency). Efficiency bundles wiring loss, charge-controller conversion, soiling, and mismatch — typically 0.72–0.78. For an 8.4 kWh design load, 3.5 winter PSH, 0.75 efficiency: 8.4 ÷ (3.5 × 0.75) = 3.2 kW, which is eight 400 W panels.

Verify your PSH with the NREL PVWatts tool — it pulls TMY data for any U.S. address and gives monthly expected output, which beats a forum post claiming “you get about 5 hours.”

Battery Bank: Capacity, Depth of Discharge, Chemistry

A battery labelled 10 kWh does not hand you 10 kWh. Depth of discharge (DoD) caps how far you can drain before cycle life tanks. Flooded lead-acid: 50% DoD. LiFePO4: 80–90%. That single variable means a 10 kWh lead-acid bank gives you 5 kWh usable while the same-rated lithium bank gives 8–9.

Battery chemistry comparison for off-grid sizing
ChemistryUsable DoDCycle LifeCold Penalty
Flooded lead-acid50%800–1,200 cyclesLoses ~1%/°C below 25 °C
AGM / Gel50%500–800 cyclesSimilar to flooded
LiFePO480–90%3,000–5,000+ cyclesMust not charge below 0 °C

Bank sizing formula: (daily kWh × autonomy days) ÷ DoD = nameplate kWh. At 8.4 kWh/day, 3 days autonomy, 80% DoD: (8.4 × 3) ÷ 0.80 = 31.5 kWh nameplate. That is the sticker number you shop for — the usable share is 25.2 kWh.

System Losses You Must Not Ignore

Between the panel face and the wall outlet, energy leaks at every junction. Most people lump everything into “85% efficient” and move on. That one number hides the component where chemistry choice actually swings the outcome:

  • Wiring — 2–4%; longer runs or thinner gauge cost more.
  • MPPT controller — 3–5% conversion overhead.
  • Battery round-trip — 10–15% lead-acid, 5–8% LiFePO4. This is the big lever.
  • Inverter — 5–10%; worse at light loads where fixed standby draw dominates.
  • Soiling and snow — 2–5%, seasonal.

Over a year of daily cycling, the lead-acid round-trip penalty burns an extra 400–600 kWh compared to lithium on an 8 kWh/day system — often justifying the higher LiFePO4 price within three to four years.

Surge is a separate axis. A well pump drawing 700 W continuous may spike to 2,100 W on start. The inverter must handle that peak or it faults, regardless of how much energy the bank holds.

Design Assumptions You Can Defend to an Inspector

A permit reviewer does not care about your spreadsheet — they want traceable sources behind every number:

  • PSH source: link to your PVWatts report or local TMY file. A “5 PSH” claim with no citation gets flagged.
  • DoD and cycle spec: attach the manufacturer datasheet page showing the recommended discharge depth and warranted cycle count.
  • Load schedule: present a device-by-device table with wattage, runtime, and daily kWh — not a single round estimate.
  • Temperature envelope: note the expected low in the battery enclosure. If it drops below freezing, document the heating strategy or BMS cutoff setting.

The calculator produces a starting size. These four documentation items turn that size into a submittal package an inspector can approve.

When This Calculator Breaks Down

  • Wildly variable loads. A woodshop that idles at 3 kWh but hits 30 kWh on milling days cannot be sized to a single daily average. You need a generator-hybrid model with dispatch logic.
  • Extreme cold with no battery shelter. At −20 °C, lead-acid capacity drops 30%+, and LiFePO4 BMS boards block charging entirely. The calculator does not model temperature curves.
  • Multi-source hybrids. Combining solar, wind, and propane generator requires load-sharing rules and state-of-charge dispatch that a single-source tool cannot capture.

In each case, use the number here as a floor, then bring in a system designer who can run hourly simulation against a full year of weather data.

Oversights that cost money: treating summer PSH as a year-round number, quoting battery capacity without specifying DoD, and skipping inverter surge rating when a well pump or compressor is on the load list.

Related tools: Solar Land Requirement Calculator when a ground-mounted array needs acreage estimates, Wind Turbine Spacing Calculator if you are evaluating a hybrid solar-wind site, Rainwater Harvesting Tank Size Calculator for pairing water self-sufficiency with energy autonomy, and Rural Utility Cost Estimator to weigh off-grid capex against a utility line extension.

Sizes shown are concept-level planning figures — not a substitute for a licensed electrician’s NEC load calculation, a manufacturer-approved battery configuration, or a stamped electrical permit drawing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this accurate enough to design a real off-grid system?

Treat it as a feasibility checkpoint, not a design. It gets you close enough to price equipment and compare battery chemistries, but a real system needs charge-controller and inverter sizing, wire gauge, overcurrent protection, a battery bank configuration, and compliance with the electrical code. Real-world output also swings with seasonal sun, temperature, and actual system losses, none of which a single average captures. Take the numbers to a licensed electrician and a solar installer before you buy.

What if my loads vary a lot by season or day?

The tool works off one average daily load, so a cabin that idles at 3 kWh but hits 30 kWh on the days you run the well pump and power tools can't be sized to the mean. Size to your highest-demand stretch, usually deep winter with the shortest sun, or plan on a generator to cover the peaks. If the load really is that spiky, you want a generator-hybrid model with dispatch logic, which is beyond a single-source estimate.

How do I pick realistic peak sun hours?

Peak sun hours compress a full day of changing sunlight into an equivalent number of hours at 1,000 watts per square meter. It swings hard by location and season: Phoenix in December sits near 5.2, upstate New York around 2.5. Size to the worst month unless a generator covers the gap, because a system built on summer numbers dies in January. Pull your value from NREL's PVWatts, which uses real weather data for your address, rather than a forum post claiming you get about 5 hours.

How should I set autonomy days and depth of discharge?

Autonomy days is how long the bank carries you with no sun. One or two days suits consistently sunny sites; three or more buys margin through cloudy stretches. Depth of discharge is set by chemistry: flooded lead-acid lasts longest held to 50 percent, while LiFePO4 runs safely to 80 or 90. Deeper discharge shrinks the bank you need to buy but shortens its life on lead-acid, which is a big part of why lithium often wins over a few years of daily cycling.

Does this size the inverter and charge controller?

No, and both matter. The inverter has to handle your peak surge, not the average, so a well pump that draws 700 watts running but spikes to 2,100 on start sets the requirement regardless of how much energy the bank holds. The charge controller has to match the array's voltage and current. Pick both from your actual equipment specs, or have your installer do it, because a bank sized right behind an undersized inverter still faults.

Can I use this for a grid-tied or hybrid system?

It's built for standalone off-grid, where solar and batteries have to meet 100 percent of the load. Grid-tied and hybrid systems carry different considerations: utility interconnection, net metering, and backup-power strategy. The underlying sizing logic is similar, but the design targets differ enough that you shouldn't lean on an off-grid result for a grid-connected build.

Why is the installed capacity bigger than the calculated requirement?

Two reasons. The tool rounds up to whole panels and whole battery modules, so you land slightly above the theoretical minimum, and it adds a 15 percent design margin to storage. That extra headroom is deliberate. It absorbs guests leaving lights on, the load you add next winter, and the gap between an average year and the cloudy one that actually tests the system.

What does the system losses value include?

It's everything that leaks between the panel face and the outlet: wiring resistance, charge-controller conversion, battery round-trip inefficiency, inverter conversion, and temperature effects on panel output. A well-built system loses 25 to 35 percent overall. The battery round-trip is the lever worth watching, since lead-acid gives up 10 to 15 percent there against 5 to 8 for LiFePO4, and over a year of daily cycling that difference alone burns hundreds of extra kWh.

How do I choose battery voltage: 12V, 24V, or 48V?

Higher voltage carries the same power at lower current, which means thinner wire and less loss. 12V suits very small loads under about 1 kW. 24V handles moderate cabins in the 1 to 3 kW range. 48V is the choice above 3 kW and is what most modern inverters expect, so larger builds default there. Check your inverter and charge-controller specs, since they constrain the practical choice.

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Prepared by
Waqar Khan, Editor-in-Chief, EverydayBudd Editorial
Last updated
July 7, 2026
Reviewed against
Peak sun hours reviewed against NREL PVWatts TMY data. Array and battery sizing follow standard depth-of-discharge and system-loss conventions from NREL and DOE. Concept-level sizing, not a substitute for a licensed electrician's NEC load calculation.

Educational tool. Results are estimates.
Educational only. These comparisons use public data and general models. Verify anything decision-critical against current local sources.

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